Yet another one of Anand’s secret planning trips and off we went on a traffic-ky Friday towards Chitradurga, with a dinner of corn on the cob and murderously overpriced nachos. By the time we reached our pit stop for the night at 11 pm I was ready to crash, and so I did.
The next morning we decided to read about each place we were visiting just before getting there, especially if it was a historical one. It made us realise that most of what we knew of our heritage buildings, online at least, seemed like it was researched by people outside of India. More the merrier I’d say. As we read through the descriptions, we saw that a lot of the places on this trip were of the Hoysala architecture. While I had heard of the legend that the emblem came about when Hoy-Sala was the term used by the teacher to urge his student to attack a lion, I better liked the story that it was symbolic of the king of the Hoysala dynasty overthrowing the Cholas and that the tiger was simply an emblem of the Chola dynasty itself.
We started off dutifully at the Lakshmi Narasimha temple. As much as I dislike most crowded temples, I found it hilarious that the maps app pointed us to the mosque right behind it. It was also completely surrounded by tightly packed houses around that made it less of a break from time. Nevertheless, the Narasimha idol with the Lakshmi on the lap was something I hadn’t seen before. We quickly went in and out of the temple with plain domes (that made it seem incomplete). The best part of it for me though was simply seeing a turtle in the temple well! We decided not to linger too much in our not-too-temple-appropriate-wear(trousers and shirts!) that was already getting looks and judgment from the crowd.
We next went on a long ride to the Shivappa Nayaka palace and museum. On the way read an entertaining story of a gentleman (Ganesh Mallya) who was tired of the 7 taxes for entering the kingdom and so himself decided to earn a living setting up an 8th one, He then went undetected for months. It definitely gives some hope for his namesakes of the current day. Much our dismay, while the car’s AC conked off on one hand, on the other hand, the palace was closed since it was the 2nd Saturday. We picked up some peanuts to munch on and found a place to have a meal.
Before our next stop, we passed by the Tiger and Lion safari at Thyavarekoppa, and when Anand who had already been there asked if I wanted to go, I agreed. After all, who can resist the gorgeous cats? We were right in time for a bus full of people waiting for a quorum to start the safari. Off we went, a couple of the felines were out and about and the rest were content in their enclosures napping or sunbathing. As all safaris, the humans though were a riot and crowded every possible view of the animals from the bus. Anand got prime treatment from the guide simply because of his SLR. I was satisfied getting an occasional peak at the animals and then chilling. After the safari, we had a pleasant walk around the zoo seeing the birds and animals. Of them, my favourite was the ever-so-dainty fox and also the realisation that emu’s had shockingly human-like beautiful eyes. We left after a stroll around the place in perfect weather.
The western ghats in the rains is always a stunning experience. Everything’s green and lush and alive with picture perfect views at every turn. Even stopping to refill our lungs and take in the painfully beautiful scenes makes the trip worth it.
We next got to Thirthahalli, found a place to rest for the night and I had a yummy sea-food meal after months.
The next morning we put on our figurative adventure hats and set off to find the highest waterfall in India, Kunchikal falls. We had scenic pit stops on the way at every turn with ponds and rivers flowing below bridges. We stopped at what seemed like one side of a dam with an inclined stone surface. I gave up after a few slippery steps on the flat part of the stone while the monkey in the family climbed up to see what was on the other side and took a picture for my reference. Just a few meters away we reached the Mani dam and saw a police guard come toward us. He told us it was a restricted area and we weren’t allowed on the dam nor were we allowed to take pictures there. We took a few pics before the dam and watched the beautiful view. Seeing our woebegone faces, the 2 guards(one more inside the shelter) asked us to go ahead and take a walk on the dam but not take pictures. Even that was worth it as the water on either side was beautiful with small islands dotting the seemingly endless expanse of water. Despite missing on the actual waterfalls we both agreed it was worth the trip. We bid farewell and thanked the police folks and went off on our way.
Next stop was the poet Kuvempu’s house. I remember loving some lines from his poem in school. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the actual words in Kannada. But it went that heaven and hell were both right on this earth and nothing beyond it. A first decided to go to the samadhi. While I had low expectations, I was blown away at how lovely it was. There were roughly cut stones placed as works of art in a canopy and further ahead as pillars all over the place. They seemed to merge with the place, not taking away from its natural beauty while being located atop a hill with a pretty view. A few of his lines were engraved in stone too.
The university was a stone throw away from the place and I could wistfully imagine me as a student loving to sit here and do some reading amidst so much peace and quiet. We left after a while as more tourists reached the place and then headed off to the poet’s home.
It was the perfect example of an old style house that both of us love. It had an arecanut and banana field beside it and a newly manicured garden in front. It aptly had the author’s child-like poem mane(home) inscribed on a stone at the entrance too.
The house itself had a lovely central courtyard and old furniture that was well maintained. I was also gushing over the old-style doors, windows and pillars throughout. They had on display some utensils and other implements but the house itself was the real treat if one is into old houses. We went through a half-open door outside where there was a bathroom, also of the olden times. Not-my-thing. It was a cowshed kind of space (elbow height wall all around) with a fireplace for a huge pot of water to boil. And a pit about 1.5 ft deep for folks to sit in and take bath (clothed). We also entertained ourselves looking at some tadpoles half on their way to turning frogs, hopping all over the place. We considered buying one of the poem collections but I wanted some recommendations and wasn’t sure of what I’d read, so we walked away. We met a nice girl travelling by herself from Bangalore and
We met a nice girl travelling by herself from Bangalore and lunched with her in the teeny shop+’hotel’ just outside the house. Also, she and I noted the really clean restrooms right outside which is a welcome change while travelling. We then made a brief stop at the art gallery that was filled with mostly the poet’s son’s photography of birds and a new design wish-list addition to what my library should look like.
We next headed off to our last stop, the Amrutheshwara temple at Amruthapura. It was a long drive and the most interesting thing we read of the temple was that it had sculpted panels of Ramayana on one side(in an anti-clockwise direction) and Mahabharatha on the other. We entered the place with some other tourists/devotees too and in a short while it poured. I contently found a nook to watch the rain and the structure while Anand went shutter-happy around the place. The poojari borrowed my umbrella and went to the sub-temple to perform his pooja. After a while, seeing that the rain refused to abate, we took back our umbrella, walked in the rain around the place and entered the sub-temple.
The poojari caught us unawares by asking if we wanted an ‘archane’ done. We nodded our assent and he went on with the mutterings leaving us in the end with some coconut palm flowers, green bangles, a handful of kumkum and some other flowers. It was hilarious that he wasn’t completely sure of our relationship so offered an assortment of blessings we could ask of the resident devi. Education, progeny, good memory and what not. So there quite bemused, we left the place. It was one of the few temples I’d seen with a preserved outer wall which was moderately decorated and quite beautiful. The ceiling art and the demonic faces were also quite lovely works of art. Anand educated me that hook-like structures on the ceiling were for the thulabharam and were a part of most temples in the south. I’m going to keep an eye out for them now on.
With hands full of the offerings from the temple we didn’t know what to do with, we head off to the car a little more delayed than expected, to go on our way back home. I’d mentioned to Anand that I was always unsure of the complete picture of Mahabharatha and knew random instances of random people and mixed up the names often. That was the moment of discovery that it was a topic right up his alley. As eager as he was to tell me the whole thing, he applied a disclaimer that he was bad with names, so it only made sense for me to avoid confusing myself further initially, so I looked up a super-brief Mahabharatha story off our know-it-all, the internet. We merrily spent the next 2 hours discussing other details of the story the brief version had missed. It was surprisingly entertaining and exhausting for Anand as he was doing most of the talking. More tedious traffic, tolls later, just as I was about to crash, we got right back to our very welcoming home glad at the trip and yet happy to be back.