3 day trip

Bijapur – Of whispering echoes and carved calligraphy

We first headed to Upli Burj which perhaps wasn’t the best idea just after a heavy lunch. It’s a cylindrical watch tower built by Hyder Ali, with a winding staircase to reach atop its 80ft height. While there rests a canon atop it, the main attraction of the watch tower is the expansive view of the city and making a game out of identifying all its landmarks.

The cannon at Upli Burj

Ibrahim roza was next on our list and we were welcomed by the sight of the lady at the shoe stand preparing to feed some break and milk to a kindle of kittens as they mewed impatiently. IMG_4175.jpgIt houses 2 structures one a mosque and another that houses the tombs including that of Ibrahim Adil Shah II and his wife Taj Sultana. Designed by the Persian architect Malik Sandal, the 2 structures are separated by a pond and fountain between them. It is believed that this structure was the inspiration for the design of Taj Mahal.IMG_4161.jpg

A favourite of mine were the Arabic writings from the Quran engraved in delicate filigree work atop the doors with remarkable skill allowing light to stream through. IMG_4240.jpgThe artistry on the teak wood doors and the exterior and interior walls are quite the treat to admire and enjoy this 17th century structure. The geometric patterns on the interior of the mosque’s ceilings and arches made for calming symmetry too.

While I marvelled at the stunning architecture, Anand was immediately surrounded by a group of children with demands to take their pictures in every possible location within the structure- both one at a time and as a group.


Note: You can only enter barefoot to Ibrahim Roza and the floor can be quite hot in the afternoons, We’d recommend carrying an extra pair of socks to save your feet.

Malik-e maidan(king of the plans) also called Burj-e-Sherz(tower of lion) was our next stop. This spot has a canon today that has a lion with open jaws crushing an elephant at the mouth of it and which is considered the largest to have been used in the medieval times at 4.45mt. It is believed that it took several elephants, 100s of oxen and people to get this cannon to the top of the tower. It is said that it required 10 gunners to set it off and who immediately jumped into a tank of water to avoid the deafening noise it generated. However it’s an interesting throwback to the Battle of Talikota fought by the Deccan Sultanates against the Vijayanagara empire. It was said to be won by 2 generals of the Vijayanagara empire switching loyalties during the battle leading to their loss. This tower was built to commemorate this victory. This was unfortunately followed by the pillaging and wide spread destruction of the then prosperous, culturally rich city of Hampi.img_4266img_4265

From the 17th century, we next headed to a place created in the 21st, recommended by our auto driver, called Shivgiri – it is a park of sorts that includes some greenery and even some amusement park rides. However, the key reason to visit is the 85ft statue of Lord Shiva which is said to be the 2nd largest of Lord Shiva in India and the 4th largest in the world. The towering statue has a good level of detail especially in the rudraksha necklace and scales on the snake draped on the neck of the Lord Shiva. Unless you’re looking to kill some time and entertain children, the rest of the park would not be worth too much time though.IMG_4279.jpg

As much as we wanted to visit Gol Gumbaz and tried to cool down with some ice candy in brilliant orange, the Bijapur heat had gotten to us. Our auto driver convinced us that Gol Gumbaz would be open early in the morning – as early as 6am, still leaving us time to catch our bus at 10. After a quick nap we decided in favor of street food in Bijapur for dinner. We head out to a noisy rowdy group of revelers celebrating Ganesha Chaturthi while being pretty inebriated in a procession of sorts. Passing quickly by them, we walked to the street behind Gagan mahal, and helped ourselves to some chaat -masala puri(sweeter than we were used to), but the flavored soda and falooda, were, like the young folk say, on point.

We were up and packed early next morning to head off to Gol Gumbaz on foot since our hotel was just a 10 min walk away. We were still quite uncertain if it’d be open but much to our delight it was! The only other people were those on their regular morning walks in the sprawling 70 acre green space around the Gol Gumbaz.IMG_4286.jpg This 17th century mausoleum of Mohammed Adil Shah who had the same architect Ibrahim Sandal design his own tomb to be grander than that of his father-Ibrahim Adil Shah II. Buried along with him are his mistress, 2 wives, daughter and grandson. At a diameter of 44 mt, it is one of the largest domes in the world not supported by columns. IMG_4303.jpgWhile the light streaming in through the windows with the sunrise are quite the sight, the truly wondrous part of the structure is the whispering gallery in the interior of the dome overlooking the tombs. Listening to each other whispering from opposite sides of the dome is a truly different experience when there’s no one else but us- and well, the guide. We’d strongly recommend you visit early in the morning, it’s absolutely magical and the silence let’s you appreciate every bit of its brilliance.IMG_4306.jpg

Up next : Belgaum : Sada and Godachinmalki waterfalls

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