We drove on to Aihole next , about 10km from Pattadakal. It is understood that the structures of Pattadakal were born out of the experimentation in Aihole. This region too changed hands between empires from the Chalukyas-> Rashtrakutas-> Vijayanagara-> Adil Shahis of Bijapur-> Mughals-> Marathas-> Tipu Sultan and finally the British.
Durga Temple: is the one that would remain with you when you think back about Aihole. It has a very unique shape and structure said to be similar to those found in the Ajanta caves. In addition to the pantheon of Hindu Gods, it also has scenes from the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata and scenes of daily life.
Suryanarayana temple : Dedicated to the Sun God, the idol is seen holding a lotus in each hand and on a horse drawn chariot.
Lad Khan temple : Originally a Shiva temple, now named after an Adil Shahi commander who used it, for lack of better words, as an office to manage his military campaigns. It has 3 concentric areas – one with the sanctum sanctorum with the Shiva linga, the next one with Nandi the bull, and the last one with space for gatherings. The sculptures also are of the variety as the Durga temple.
Gaudargudi: one dedicated to Gauri (Goddess Parvati). Its known to be one of the earliest temples that included the circumambulatory path around it.
The complex also includes a stepwell.
As the sun set on us, we made the 3 hr drive back to Hubli ,now ravenous for something we’d been looking forward to enjoy- the meals at a Khanavali. We headed to Basaveshwara Khanavali in the center of town and plonked ourselves there. While they got out our plates we even ordered some shenga holige (a sweet crepe in this case made of peanuts). In addition to the jolada rotti and spicy curries and side dishes we found the salad made of both radish and radish greens particularly unique. And so we came to an end of another fun day looking forward to waterfalls in the next one!
The next morning we were excited for our first waterfalls this monsoon. But before that breakfast at another popular restaurant in Hubli- Karnataka Bhavan where we munched on hot pooris and soft Mangalore buns.
After a long drive, we got to Sathodi falls happy to stretch our feet for the short walk from the entrance to the waterfalls. But by now the breakfast was long digested and we were ravenous. Luckily on the path to the falls there is a board next to the only house there, urging us to order a meal before heading down so we can have it when getting back. A few steps later, we gleefully heard the roaring of the waterfalls through the greenery. Through the gorgeous mist there was the muddy waterfalls powerfully gushing down 15meters into the dam backwaters and ultimately into the Kali river. There was something so perfectly raw about it that was riveting- so much that we didn’t even mind either the mild drizzle and the other visitors around. Comfortable in our poncho raincoats we were happy to find a boulder to sit on for a while, feeling lucky to be able to witness it in all its glory.
Hunger finally led us back and we were thrilled to bits at the warm meal awaiting us. An older couple ran the eatery out of their home and the food was flawless with plenty of dishes- I especially relished the tambuli. They are utterly charming and hospitable. A request to any of you visiting would be to carry along the days newspaper with you for the uncle there. Apparently getting newspapers with almost no neighboring homes around is very hard and so they rarely get one. We always carry one (see our road trip guide) but unfortunately ours was several weeks old.
Note: the road to Sathodi is terrible. There were young boys driving Activa scooters there, but we were mighty glad to have taken a sturdy car with great suspension on hire for this ride. We’d recommend you do the same if you have more of a “city” car. The route is very bumpy and the monsoons only make it worse. The distance from Hubli is less than 100kms but will take you 3 hours at the very least to reach there. Fallen trees if any may delay/block your path in the monsoons too. We chose to stay at Hubli,Yellapur is the options but accomodation options there are limited to home stays. Plan accordingly.
From Sathodi it’s a 1.5 hour drive to Magod. Just a few steps down and there is a viewpoint to enjoy the falls from. There are further view points below but it was already misty in the early evening and we decided to enjoy this while we could. Through the green cover, the waterfalls from the river Bedti cascade down levels and then seem to endlessly explode into thin air making for a hypnotizing sight.
A quick stop at the view point at Jenukallu Gudda and dusk had soon settled. This forced us back on our way and after a hot meal, memories of the gushing waterfalls gently lulled us to sleep.